![]() In other words, know yourself, and come from a distinctive point of view. ![]() Though I’d mentioned that I’m not the biggest ramen fanatic, so I’d eaten more of the small plates at Ichicoro Ane, I found that Cruz and I were also aligned philosophically.Ĭruz offered a principle that guides him, and which stuck with me after our meeting: don’t be everything to everyone do a few things really well. With each iteration, Cruz puts a unique spin on the concept, with the addition of small plates, snacks, and other Japanese influences, culinary or otherwise. In a few short years, with ramen trending upward, Ichicoro has grown, but been careful not to be repetitive. In other words, not a typical Tampa restaurant.įor some vendors, Heights Public Market is their first big “go” with their own brand for Noel, it’s his fourth location (Seminole Heights, Birmingham (AL), St. He kept his footprint small, with tables packed tightly. ![]() Like, not taking reservations, and entering through the bar to get to the seating area, which is compact and close to the kitchen. A well-rounded menu provides non-liquid options, like the CuBaoNo™ pressed bun, a direct nod to Tampa’s history, as well as rice bowls and Karaage Chicken, an elevated fried chicken tender.Ĭruz thought through all the details, and brought with him some elements of New York dining. The first Ichicoro location opened in fall 2015, and its popularity with eaters hasn’t wavered since, despite our warm climate and ramen’s core of hot broth. Reinterpreting the dish for Tampa was easier than you might expect. The specific combination of broth, noodles, and various garnishes was brought from China to Japan about 400 years ago, and is one of the few Japanese cultural staples that is traditionally nontraditional each region has its own style. Springy, chewy noodles are key too, and unlike other types of noodle or pasta, must be sturdy enough to hold up to very hot liquid. Ramen is all about the broth, some varieties of which take fifteen hours to perfect. He also had to overcome a perception that ramen is for college students on a budget. not from a package) required Cruz, actually of Filipino descent, to relearn many things the Japanese do differently in cuisine, which in many ways mirrors Japan’s wider culture of less is more. In a short period, he connected with investors, an operating partner, and was able to convince a team to come from New York to help launch the brand and operate its first location. When the idea of an authentic ramen-ya presented itself, Cruz jumped.ĭuring a five-week pop-up location in Manhattan, testing out a Tampa-style ramen menu, Tampa Bay Times’ food critic Laura Reiley ate at the stand and encouraged him to return to his roots.Ī native of Tampa, Cruz created Ichicoro under “the perfect storm” of circumstances. There, he learned the principles of fine French cooking, and over time, saw what worked and what didn’t in America’s toughest food market. ![]() Perhaps that’s because he has well over a decade of food experience in New York, after attending the Culinary Institute of America. Like someone who regularly practices meditation or yoga, he conveys zen calm alongside a focused work ethic-for stylish, thoughtful hospitality with a clear point of view. He is a compact but sturdy guy with tattoos up and down his tanned arm, a sharp haircut, and a kind, knowing smile. I don’t want to overstate this, but I felt a sort of visceral magnetism while I sat across from Noel Cruz, discussing his food stall at Heights Public Market and the broader Ichicoro brand. Ichicoro profile – Conversation with Noel Cruz – written by Alex English.
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